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Description of the area
The lakes area of the Estany de Banyoles (Banyoles Lake) lies in the county of El Pla de l'Estany between the Empordà plain and the volcanic region of La Garrotxa, and constitutes a natural area of great geological, ecological, countryside and cultural value. It consists of the lake, the largest in Catalonia, and a series of pools, wetlands and intermittent ponds which together make up the most important karst system in the country. It is for this reason that the area is of major scientific significance and is the cradle of research into limnology (the study of inland bodies of water) in Spain.
Throughout history human beings have impacted on the landscape and changed it in mostly artificial ways. Nowadays, however, the area is used for a large number of public activities (mainly sporting and recreational ones) which are compatible with the maintenance of its natural state.
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There have been acquired a total of 17.4 ha of terrain in the Can Morgat (Porqueres) sector with the goal of converting its drained agricultural land into ponds and intermittently flooded areas so as to recover aquatic environments and shoreline woods. These actions are part of the LIFE Natura -Restoration of the aquatic environments of Porqueres and Banyoles-. As part of this project it was signed an agreement to transfer use of the land to the Consorci de l'Estany (Estany Consortium), and is also taking part in the drafting of the Pla Especial de Protecció del Medi Físic de l'Espai Natural de l'Estany (Special L'Estany Natural Area Environmental Protection Plan). |
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Unique hydrogeology
The water in the Banyoles lakes area comes from underground springs in L'Alta Garrotxa. The soil is permeable as far as Banyoles, but there it becomes impermeable and hence the water rises to the surface. As it does so, it dissolves the chalk and gypsum above it and carves out underground cavities which increase in size until their ceilings give way. This process leads to the appearance of springs, pools and, by extension, the Estany.
The Estany contains a highly characteristic type of rock: travertine. This rock is formed and grows when carbonated salts that are dissolved in the water are precipitated through a chemical process and due to the action of microorganisms. It grows gradually, which is why it is also known as "pedra viva" or living rock. Travertine formations can be seen in the water between the Club Natació Banyoles (Banyoles Swimming Club) and Cap de Bou, and around the Marimon fishing ground.
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Interesting species
The wide variety of plant and animal life which can be viewed in and around the Estany would be hard to find elsewhere in Catalonia. It contains 11 habitats of community interest and 15 protected species mentioned in the EU's Habitats Directive, 28 mentioned in the Birds Directive, as well as other species protected by domestic legislation.
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Vegetation
Some well-preserved areas contain indigenous species of shoreline trees such as white willows (Salix alba), European alders (Alnus glutinosa), narrow-leafed ash (Fraxinus angustifolia), and white poplars (Populus alba). You can also find the stinking iris (Iris foetidissima) and a number of species of sedge (Carex riparia, C. hispida, C. elata) which are characteristic of shoreline woods. Outside the Estany's area of influence and on top of small, uncultivated hills stand ilex woods and groves of Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), with downy oak (Quercus humilis) growing in the lower areas. Next to the water are to be found common reeds (Phragmites australis), swamp sawgrass (Cladium mariscus), rushes (Scirpus maritimus, S. littoralis), broad-leaved cattails (Typha latifolia), yellow lilies (Iris pseudacorus) and, in some places, the rare marsh fern Thelypteris thelypteroides. Underwater there are species such as pond weeds (Potamogeton sp.), watermilfoil (Myriophyllum) and banks of algae from the stonewort family. In some parts, white water lilies (Nymphaea alba) and crystalwort (Riccia fluitans) cover the surface of the water.
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Fauna
- Nowadays the most abundant fish in the Estany, such as the black-bass (Micropterus salmoides), the pumpkinseed sunfish (Lepomis gibbosus), the eastern mosquitofish (Gambusia holbrooki) and the perch (Perca fluviatilis), are not native to it. However, small indigenous populations of barbels (Barbus meridionalis), catfish (Squalius cephalus) and river bullheads (Salaria fluviatilis) still exist in the Can Morgat watercourse and in the Estany.
As for mammals living in or near water, the most common is now the water vole (Arvicola sapidus) since otters (Lutra lutra) disappeared in the middle of the 20th century due to the pressure of humans. Others such as badgers (Meles meles) and weasels (Mustela nivalis), who tend to prefer cultivated areas, are also to be found along with wild boars (Sus scrofa) and squirrels (Sciurus vulgaris).
- Out of the more than 100 species of birds registered in the area, aquatic species predominate including common moorhens (Gallinula chloropus), coots (Fulica atra), mallards (Anas platyrhynchos), pochards (Aythya ferina), little grebes (Tachybaptus ruficollis), little bitterns (Ixobrychus minutus), common kingfishers (Alcedo atthis), great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo), cattle egrets (Bubulcus ibis) and grey herons (Ardea cinerea). Birds which typically make their homes in reedbeds are also to be found such as the great reed warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus), Cetti's warbler (Cettia cetti) and the reed warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus).
- The area is one of the most important in Catalonia for amphibians, especially the Platja d'Espolla which is a very important breeding and recruitment point. Some 11 species can be found including green or Perez frogs (Rana perezi), common toads (Bufo bufo), natterjack toads (Bufo calamita), painted frogs (Discoglossus pictus), midwife toads (Alytes obstetricans), salamanders (Salamandra salamandra), marbled newts (Triturus marmoratus) and palmate newts (Triturus helveticus).
- In terms of reptiles, the highlight is the presence of Mediterranean turtles (Mauremys leprosa) and European pond turtles (Emys orbicularis), two indigenous species of which there are very few left. Also to be found are grass snakes (Natrix natrix).
- Invertebrates include naiads and freshwater mussels, tadpole shrimps (Triops cancriformis) which are its emblematic crustacean, orange spotted emeralds (Oxygastra curtisii), one of the few species of dragonfly protected by European legislation, and other invertebrates commonly present in intermittent waters.
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How to get there
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- From Girona take the Barcelona to France AP-7 motorway and leave it at junction 6; then take the C-66 dual-carriageway for 13 km straight to Banyoles.
- Another option is to take the N-II which links up with the C-66 at the Sant Julià de Ramis by-pass.
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Routes
The most complete route is to go right round the Estany de Banyoles. Along the way you'll be able to see numerous and varied points of interest such as the paths and fishing grounds which make up an area catalogued as a National Interest Historic Garden, the Paratge dels Desmais, the Estanyol del Vilar, the Romanesque church of Santa Maria de Porqueres, the karst pools of En Cisó i Nou, Can Morgat wood, La Draga park and a Neolithic archaeological dig. A stroll along the paths running through the shoreline woods around the Estany will bring you to viewing points such as La Cuaranya, and footbridges over the water which let you get a good look at the reedbeds and cross them without doing any damage. Information boards have been set up all along the route.
The Puda Route starts to the right of the road from Banyoles to Santa Pau, next to the old sulphurous water spa of the Font de la Puda (characterised by the presence of microbial communities). This route takes you through a fascinating area of wetlands where you can see the ecologically highly important Montalt and La Cendrea pools.
600 metres up the same road towards Santa Pau you come to the Paratge de les Estunes. This is an evergreen wood dominated by ilex, oak and pines with chalk grottoes and fissures which you can explore as if they were caves, though you need to be careful not to slip into a crevice.
On the Pla de Martís-Usall, between the municipalities of Porqueres and Fontcoberta, you can visit the Platja
d'Espolla. An intermittent pool, it is fed by underground water from the same hydrogeological system as the Estany and features a notable presence of tadpole shrimps (Tríops cancriformis) and a great diversity of amphibians. When the Platja is full, especially after periods of heavy rainfall, it is visited by shallow-water fowl such as shore and wading birds.
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Recommendations
Any time of year is good for visiting the Estany and its surrounding area. However, there's no doubt that the greatest number of migratory species can be seen during the spring and autumn. Spring is also the season when the countryside is most interesting in botanical terms.
The viewing point on top of Puig de Sant Martirià affords a fine panoramic view over the Estany de Banyoles.
Make the most out of your stay by trying out all the routes and don't forget to call in at the Oficina de Turisme (Tourist Information Office) and the Escola de Natura de Banyoles (Banyoles Nature School) where you'll find all the information you need (guidebooks, leaflets and maps) to discover the area in depth.
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Services
Check out the Consorci de l'Estany website:
www.estanyespainatural.net.
On the website you'll not only find a lot of information about the area and useful links to ensure you get the most out of your visit, but you can also go on a virtual tour of the Estany and its surroundings with moving panoramic visits and a number of image galleries. It also provides information about the Consorci de l'Estany and the projects and activities which are being carried out, in particular the Life-Natura project. |
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| L'Estany landscape from the hill of Sant Martirià |
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Other information
There are a number of other sites of natural interest near the Estany nature area, such as Rocacorba, the Fluvià, with the path from the stations to Esponellà, Fares island and the Serinyà caves. Plus in Banyoles itself you can also visit the irrigation channels which carry water from the Estany and whose construction made the town's growth possible. |
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Local produce
Banyoles cuisine basically consists of dishes from the Empordà with a predominance of meat, which is of a very high quality in the county. As for pastries, must-tries include the typical Tortada made from almonds, sugar and egg, and Cansalada, a cake which was often accompanied by a glass of Puda spring water. Rocs de l'Estany and Poquibons are more modern pastries which can be found in some of the town's pastry shops. |
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