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Location
Port d'Arnes is the southern most part of the Serralada Prelitoral Catalana (the pre-coastal mountain range): the massif of Els Ports. The massif is a large expanse of limestone that stretches parallel to the coast from north-east (bordering with the River Ebre and the Pàndols mountain range) to south-east, connecting with the mountains of El Maestrat de Castelló and Terol, following on from the Iberian System. The massif of Els Ports stretches over an area of around 350 km2 in Catalonia. Its abrupt orography consists of crags, ravines, river pools and mountain peaks, some measuring over 1,300 m in height (Mont Caro is the highest at 1,447m).
The area is located on the western slope (inland) of the massif of Els Ports (known locally as El Port) in the town of Arnes and the Terra Alta district.
The area is divided into 6 units:
Unit A, Estrets d'Arnes: the rocky conglomerate area of Les Moles del Viernets, Les Gronses, Els Estrets d'Arnes, Les Moles del Don, Les Roques del Duc, La Falconera and La Punta de l'Espardenyer.
- Unit B, Coll de Miralles:
(Ba, Bb) the northern border lies at the confluence of the ravines of El Pedregal and El Grevolar. The unit extends between these two ravines through Les Tosques and El Morral Roig and ends close to the trail of Coll de Miralles.
- Unit C, Coll de Montflort
: consists of three small fragments (Ca, Cb, and Cc) bordering on the final stretch of the trail. Cb is actually the final stretch of the trail, at Coll de Montfort, and Cc heads up from the track along the slope, called Els Clots, and ends at the Pla de Terranyes.
- Unit D, Terranyes:
stretches across roughly the southern half of the plateau of Terranyes, which includes Mas del Torrero, and the head water of the ravine of the Estrets del Llaç until it reaches the ravine of Caserres.
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Climate
It has the characteristics of low mountain areas with a Mediterranean climate. It is colder and more humid than the nearby flatland areas. The climate of this area also differs from that of the eastern slope of the massif since the latter is influenced by the sea. The local microclimate is heavily influenced by factors such as altitude, gradient and the orientation of slopes. January is the coolest month while August is the hottest, although the temperature in each spot varies according to its altitude and topography. According to studies, average rainfall ranges from 500 mm in the lower areas to 800 mm in the higher regions.
Hydrology
The rivers and ravines in the area form part of the hydrographic basin of the left bank of the River Ebre. The River Estrets and the River de les Valls are tributary streams of the River Algars, which flows into the River Matarranya which, in turn, flows into the Ebre.
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Hydrology
The rivers and ravines in the area form part of the hydrographic basin of the right bank of the River Ebre. The River Estrets and the River de les Valls are tributary streams of the River Algars, which flows into the River Matarranya which, in turn, flows into the Ebre.
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Flora and vegetation
Pines dominate the forests in this area, with the Aleppo (Pinus halepensis) being more common in lower regions and the Spanish black pine (Pinus nigra subsp. salzmannii) in the higher areas. Oaks (Quercus ilex s.l.) can often be seen in the tree layer near both types of pine. In the lower areas, the oaks are generally holm oaks (Quercus ilex subsp. rotundifolia), while forms similar to the typical evergreen oaks (Quercus ilex subsp. ilex) generally predominate on the more shaded slopes.
Shrub formations of phoenician juniper woods and box scrubs on mountain ridges and rocky slopes are very common due to the abundance of rocky surfaces, ridges and crests of compacted rock. Maquis and garigue communities are very common and there is an abundance of juniper woods (Juniperus phoenicea subsp. phoenicea). Common elements of the herbaceous layer include the Phlomido-Brachypodietum retusi, swards at the feet of cliffs, mesoxerophilic false brome areas (Brachypodietum phoenicoidis) dominated by the Brachypodium phoenicoides, expanses of herbs over rocky benches and ridges, rupicolous vegetation and halophytic communities of rushes and hygrophilous grassland.
The flora of Els Ports has one of the highest biological values of Catalonia, both in terms of its richness and the large number of plants that are rare elsewhere in the region, such as the large number of endemic taxons: Arenaria conimbricensis subsp. Viridis, Biscutella fontqueri Knautia rupicola (Willk.) and Valeriana tripteris var. tarraconensis. The strictly protected species are Campanula speciosa Pourr, Ilex aquifolium L, Lonicera pyrenaica L. subsp. Pyrenaica, Saxifraga longifolia Lapeyr and the European yew (Taxus baccata L).
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Fauna
The diversity of environments, the geographical location and the fact that the area has been well preserved have encouraged the presence of rare species or of species that have disappeared from other areas.
These species include arachnids, molluscs and lepidoptera. The endemic species of Els Ports are Cochlostoma fontqueri molluscs (relatively abundant but limited to the Caro region) and Bythinella batalleri (in fresh, clean water of El Mascar at La Mola de Catí), and some very rare cavernicolous species: the Speleoharpactea levantina arachnid, and the coleoptera Tychobythynus escolai, Paraphaenops breuilianus and Ceuthosphodrus levantinus.
Fish include the barbel, stone loach, redtail barb, red roach and trout (Salmo trutta fario, Salmo gairdneri). The area is also home to reptiles and amphibians, such as the marbled newt, the marsh frog, the viperine snake, the slow worm or Bedriagai's skink. The group of birds includes birds of prey such as the Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), the Griffin vulture (Gyps fulvus), the Golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), still a fairly common species in Els Ports, the rarest and threatened Bonelli's eagle (Hieraetus fasciatus), the Peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), four pairs of which have been located, and even the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) and the Black vulture (Aegypius monachus), which have occasionally been observed. You can also spot the booted and short-toed eagles, goshawks, kites, buzzards, the hobby and the tawny owl, and other birds such as the jay, and the green and great spotted woodpeckers, woodpigeons, turtle doves, cuckoos, and smaller birds such as robins, tits, nuthatches, short-toed treecreepers, chaffinches, crossbills, firecrests and chiffchaffs. Other highlights include the dipper (Cinclus cinclus) and the red billed chough (Phyrrocorax phyrrocorax). Mammals include weasels and foxes, wild boars, squirrels and wild cats in the forest areas; wild goats, beech martens and small-spotted genets in the rockier regions, otters in rivers, and bats in caves, rock fissures and old farm walls. In the scrubs, brushwood, meadows and stone walls, you can also catch a glimpse of mice, shrews, voles, hedgehogs, badgers, rabbits and hares. The most important species of mammal to be spotted are the wild goat (Capra pyrenaica), the otter (Lutra lutra), the wild cat (Felis sylvestris) and the bats. |
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Approach
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Main access is provided by the T-330, the rural road that goes from Prat de Compte to Arnes and Vall-de-roures. When you reach the turning for Horta de Sant Joan, turn off in the opposite direction along a narrow asphalt track, the PR-185, which heads into the massif along the ravine of the River of Els Estrets. This track will take you to Els Estrets d'Arnes (unit A) along a dirt track that follows the unit round its more coastal (westerly) part. You can reach the other side of Els Estrets d'Arnes by taking the PR-185 into the massif. There is a footpath over the entire stretch of Els Estrets d'Arnes that runs along the right bank of the river.
The same PR-185 will take you to Mas de la Franqueta. Here, a dirt track leading to Coll de Miralles follows the south-eastern border of unit B and finally ends at Coll de Montfort (unit C -a,b,c-). You can access unit B from the north-west along the track from Arnes to the River Algars and then on foot along the ravine of the River de les Valls.
A footpath from Coll de Miralles will take you up to Terranyes (unit D). You can also access unit D from the other slope of the massif, along a dirt track that starts at the housing development of El Mascar (Roquetes), heads up to Llinars-Les Foies and finishes up at Pla de Terranyes, although this last stretch is in bad condition.
The main access to the area (unit A) is from Arnes. An asphalted track signposted "Els Estrets" runs up from the schools. At the end of it there is a car park beneath the Moles dels Biernets at the entrance to the gorge.
To get to Unit B, also from Arnes, take the track signposted "Toll del Vidre" that runs from in front of the cemetery up towards the pass. Park at the entrance to "Les Valls" (there is a sign).
You can get to units C and D along a track running from the intersection on the T-330 road between Prat de Compte and Arnes at Horta de Sant Joan and signposted as "Els Ports". Take it up to La Franqueta. Cross the bridge over the River dels Estrets, and go up an earth track (4x4) to Coll de Miralles or Coll de Montfort. You can get to Terranyes and the Mas de Torrero shelter from either of these cols. |
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Itineraries (only available in Catalan)Arnes-Roquetes. Green Route. Route of 23.6 km from Arnes to Pinell de Brai along the old railway line, ideal as a bicycle excursion. Work began on building the line in 1882, but it was not officially opened until 1942. The line was used for 31 years and finally closed in 1973. The green route starts at Arnes and heads towards Horta de Sant Joan. Here you will be able to see the convent of Saint Salvador and the mountain of Santa Bàrbara, and enjoy a panoramic view of Els Ports. Further on, it follows the course of the River Canaletes and passes through Les Olles (Bot), the spa resort of Fontcalda (Gandesa) and the Venta del Riu (el Pinell de Brai). |
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Services
- Arnes Town Hall. Plaça de la Vila, 2 Post Code 43597. Tel: 977 43 51 34. Fax: 977 43 56 06.
- Terra Alta District Council. C. de la Bassa d'en Gaire, 1 - Tel: 977 42 00 18 - Fax: 977 42 03 95 (43780) Gandesa. Website: www.arnes.altanet.org
- Oil Mill. Molí de l'Oli d'Arnes C/ Aragó 2 -Arnes- Phone: 977 435 728
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Eating out
Welcoming inns and cases de confiança serve the dishes that are typical of inland Catalan cuisine, such as rabbit with aioli, sautéed snails and partridge a l'estil caçador. Wild boar and wild goat are also served.
The oil produced in Arnes is considered to be the best olive oil in the district and is protected, as is the wine, by the designation of origin, Terra Alta.
Arnes-Cellers Clua. Wines, cavas and liqueurs, oils and traditional products. Carrer Onze de Setembre, 8. Tel: 977 43 5139 (43597 Arnes). |
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The town of Arnes
The parish church of Santa Magdalena was built in 1693 and has three naves, side chapels and a bell tower. Next to the church lie the ruins of the old gothic parish church, probably the first of the fourteenth century. Heading south, you will come upon the hermitage of Santa Madrona and not far from there, above the town, you will see the ruins of the old chapel of El Calvari and the new chapel. On the way to El Calvari you will come across the chapel of Eccehomo and, adjacent to the town, the cemetery chapel. The private buildings of Santa Pau, Casa Pinyol and Casa dels Metges are also worth a visit. The Town Hall is a Renaissance building that was constructed in 1584 by the architect Joan Vilanova.
On January 20th 1992, the Generalitat Government declared the town of Arnes bé d'interès cultural (place of cultural interest) in the historic monuments category (DOGC No. 1152, 07/02/1992). |
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Festivities and customs
Arnes. The pilgrimage to Santa Madrona takes place on the 15th March, and the village festival is held on the 22nd July in honour of Santa Magdalena.
The Associació de Dones d'Arnes (Women's Association) has recovered the jota d'Arnes, a traditional dance of the town. It is now danced on the feast day of Santa Àgueda and at village festivals.
On the day of the pilgrimage to Santa Madrona, the Town Council organises a paella for the whole town and visitors to Arnes.
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